Today it can be seen all over town. Gateway to Yosemite. It seems strange that Merced would be known as the Gateway to Yosemite. Though one of the heaviest traveled paths to Yosemite does lead right through town, Merced is not the only city with direct routes to the national park. From Fresno, Hwy 41 enters Yosemite through the Southern entrance at Wawona. The Northern entrance (Hwy 120) brings travelers through Modesto. And, of course, the Arch Rock entrance to Yosemite travels though Merced, via Hwy 140. So why did Merced get so lucky as to receive the honor?

To understand the relationship between Merced and Yosemite, it helps to have an understanding of the times, the history, and the terrain of a paradise hidden beyond treacherous cliffs. While the region known as “Yosemite” is an ancient home to the natives that lived there long before Europeans entered the scene, our history of the region begins a mere 180 years ago. In October, 1833, Joseph Walker led a beaver trapping party through Yosemite. Though no one is quite sure as to whether his description was of Yosemite Valley, or the gorge that Cascade Creek falls through, just north of the Valley, this was the first account of any person, other than natives, traveling through the Yosemite region. (Johnston 1995, 3-5)

At the time Walker made this trip, much of California, from Sonoma south, was the northern most territory of Mexico. The northern portion of California, once belonging to Russia, was a kind of no man’s land, though Mexico considered it to be theirs. While the eastern portion of the state did fall under the loose rule of Mexico, it was primarily a wasteland, a region left uninhabited except by the natives, who had cities and culture that was mostly undisturbed until the gold rush of 1849.

Walker joined the bear flag party (Osos) in 1846, following the leadership of John C. Fremont through the virtually bloodless revolt for California’s independence. In 1847, shortly after California gained its independence, James Marshall discovered gold just below one of Sutter’s mills on the Rio del los Americanos (American River). The result was the largest influx of people to the region in pursuit of riches in the gold rush of 1849.

The “wasteland” that the natives had loved so much was now the center of activity. While it is important to note that many miners and natives got along peacefully, the close proximity of the two cultures and the pursuit of their own desires caused conflicts that required the aid of armed protection. In this region, the Mariposa Battalion formed to protect the miners and the interests of the emigrants.

On March 27, 1851, while in pursuit of the Yosemite Indians (natives led by Chief Teneya living under Yosemite Falls in Yosemite Valley), the Mariposa Battalion entered Yosemite Valley for the first time. (Johnston 1995, 8)

By 1855, Yosemite was opened to tourism, and James Hutchings opened the first hotel in Yosemite Valley. Getting people to visit the paradise was difficult, and despite his work to promote the region to the world, few people made the difficult and dangerous trip. In the first decade less than 85 people made the journey. (Johnston 1995, 29)

In August, 1871, Big Oak Flat Road opened, bringing the first stage to the cliffs above Yosemite Valley. A year later a road was completed through Coulterville, and a couple years after that a road was completed through Wawona. While the completion of these roads brought stage service to the valley rim, the tourism boom they were expecting didn’t happen. (Johnston 1995, 114-136)

The stage roads didn’t really solve the problem. The roads were narrow, filled with ruts, and dangerous. The uncomfortable journey by stage took two days, and then travelers would still have to descend the sheer walls of Yosemite Valley on the third day, that is if they had the courage. (Yosemite Natural History Association 1964, 13-15)

The Stoddard Stage Line is a good example of the trouble one went through to reach Yosemite Valley. The stage started at the El Capitan Hotel, in downtown Merced. The first day was spent traveling to Coulterville, where passengers stayed the first night at the Jeffery’s Hotel. The second day’s journey brought the travelers to the top of the cliffs overlooking Yosemite Valley. On the third day, the travelers had to make the dangerous descent down the cliff wall, which took the entire day. The stage was pulled by a four-horse team. The horses had he be changed at every stop along the way, of which there were many. In all, it took ninety-six horses to power the stage to Yosemite. (Cabezut-Ortiz 1987, 54-55)

In 1890, when Yosemite was set aside as a national park around the original California State Grant, plans were started to create a railroad into the new park. The idea was met with great enthusiasm. Several interests in the project surfaced at this time including the YV Railroad by The Yosemite Valley Railway Co., an electric road from Fresno by Henry Huntington, the Yosemite Short Line by the Sierra Railroad, a group formed by JP Morgan and John D. Rockefeller sent investigators into the area to scout out a possible route, and the Southern Pacific and Santa Fe Railroads joined forces to create the Merced Canyon Railway Co. (Johnston 1963, 10)

Though Modesto, Merced, and Fresno had all competed for the main depot to be located in their town, it was Merced who won when the Yosemite Valley Railway plan had been accepted. (Cabezut-Ortiz 1987, 55)

Construction on the railroad began in 1905. Men poured into Merced to earn the $2.25 per day wage, minus $20 per month for lodging and food provided by the Yosemite Valley Railway. (Johnston 1963, 10)

The track started to be laid quickly, but was slowed by the earthquake and fires in the 1906 earthquake in San Francisco. Still, the first twenty miles from Merced, through Snelling, and onto Merced Falls was laid in the first year. As trains rolled across the first portion of track, the upper portion beyond Merced Falls and through the Merced Canyon was being constructed. Despite the treachery associated with rattlesnakes, mountain lions and steep solid rock, the railroad progressed through the Merced Canyon as planned, reaching its destination at El Portal (The Gateway) in May, 1907. (Johnston 1963, 14-15)

The railroad could not continue past El Portal due to the steep incline required to reach Yosemite Valley. To remedy this, the Stoddard family sold their stage line to the Yosemite Valley Railway, who used the stage for the short trip from El Portal to the valley, through the newly built Arch Rock entrance. Del Portal, a hotel, was established for YV passengers at the end of the line (El Portal). (Johnston 1963, 15)

The 78.43 mile track linked Merced and Yosemite Valley. For the first time passengers could travel the distance in a matter of hours, as opposed to days. Even better, the trip wasn’t nearly as dangerous, even though the Stoddard Stage had never lost a passenger. Now the people were traveling to Yosemite. It cost $18.50 for a round trip ticket, a lower price than previous fares had been by stage. (Johnston 1963, 21-22)

The life of the Yosemite Valley Railroad had its ups and downs. The early years were very prosperous, but the times were changing. The creation of the all year highway, and the advent of automobiles, traveling up the canyon on the opposite side of the Merced River from the Yosemite Valley Railroad caused some hard times at first, but the railroad recovered. World War I slowed business, but business boomed following the war, growing to new heights in the 1920’s. (Johnston 1963, 39)

The construction of Exchequer Dam caused the railroad to be rerouted. It was a difficult task, but the rail service was never interrupted. All of this was accomplished at great expense to the Merced Irrigation District (MID). (Cabezut-Ortiz 1987, 57)

In 1929 the YV almost collapsed. The main depot located in downtown Merced burned to the ground. The expense of rebuilding the depot was enormous. Shortly after, the stock market crashed bringing the railroad to its knees. The railroad did survive, but struggled the following years due to the great depression that swallowed the nation in the 1930’s.

Three small railroads that hauled lumber and stone along the rim of the Merced Canyon needed the Yosemite Valley Railroad to survive. They lowered their loads down inclines near El Portal to the waiting train below. It was the money earned from these railroads that helped the Yosemite Valley Railroad through hard times. Though the little railroads needed the YV, it was their closure that ultimately brought an end to the Yosemite Valley Railroad. In 1945 the Yosemite Valley Railroad closed its doors for the last time.

Today all that remains of the once world famous Yosemite Valley Railroad are subtle hints of its presence if you know where to look. The schoolyard of Franklin Elementary sports a circle in the grass at certain times of the year showing where the roundhouse once operated. A cut path in the Merced Canyon wall follows the Merced River opposite highway 140 (the all-year highway). Arch Rock, originally built by the railroad for the stage to pass through is still in use today for cars to pass through while entering Yosemite Valley via highway 140. The Portland Cement Co. building stands abandoned on highway 59 where the rock was hauled from above the Merced Canyon cliffs. On the hilltops along lakes McClure and McSwain stand the remains of the water tanks used by the steam engines. A jail, a few walls, and some foundations are all that remain of Merced Falls.

The most famous part of the railroad, the enduring gift that it gave Merced was a title, “Gateway To Yosemite”. (Cabezut-Ortiz 1987, 57)

By Erick Hanneman
myMerced.com staff writer

Bibligraphy

Cabezut-Ortiz, Delores J. Merced County, The Golden Harvest. USA: Windsor Publications, Inc. 1987.

Johnston, Hank, James Law. Railroads of the Yosemite Valley. Glendale, CA: Johnston-Howe Publications, Trans Anglo Books. 1963.

Johnston, Hank. The Yosemite Grant 1864-1906, A Pictoral History. Yosemite National Park, CA: The Yosemite Association. 1995.

Yosemite Natural History Association. Yosemite-Saga of a Century. USA: Yosemite Natural History Association. 1964.